But, I think I should have left it this height.). (The top/inner knob is the MK-0138, discussed later, filed down to be 0.406" tall. That is the MK-STK bottom/outer knob positioned about where the body would be if installed on a guitar. One knob (MK-STK) caught my eye because it's fatter than most (bottom-outer knob: 1" diam x 3/8" tall. The knobs are metal with a copper coating, then anodized. Or, white painted line (using tape to make it look straight.)). (With my skills, I'm afraid the notching won't look good. The two references together might be useful. I could use a chrome setscrew (on a black top/inner knob) as a pointer. I was thinking I could use a fret file to put min/mid/max notches on the flat/top surface of the outer/vol knob. Most of the knobs have no markings/pointers. I'm not trying to make it be something else. I want it to remain a Special-II, with subtle differences. I don't want it to stand out as too unusual. My goal is to have knobs that look reasonable for the Special-II. They all seem excessively tall, not proportional. But, since the knobs I ended up using have no markings, the center detente is useful information. One other possible downside: the pots have center detentes (a mild "stop"). (I imagine some are that much above 500k too.). The two pots I bought ranged between 405k to 463k. Pay attention to their shaft diameters.).
This will be important when considering knobs. It's important to note that the smooth shafts are 6 & 8mm diameter. So, I chose this pot because the threaded length is 3/8". I'm not comfortable removing wood to make that work. I don't think that's long enough to pass through my body. But the threaded length of its shaft is specified 0.25". (Not sure if it's generic or brand-name good quality, or not.).ĬTS also makes a 500k dual-concentric. I've seen it called "Alps" and "Alpha" brand. I found this 500k dual-concentric pot online: You can buy new ones, lubricate them and not have a problem again. If you mangle your screw heads getting them out, they're just ordinary pickguard screws. Google about plugging a hole with a toothpick and wood glue. When they're snug, I rotate (tight/loose) a few times to find a good tightness. I think it's easier to strip the hole by over-tightening a lubricated screw. If you lube your screws, be more sensitive to when they tighten. You may have to heat it to make it more usable.). It's silicone grease with a thickener added. The dielectric grease used later in this post (for the pot shaft) might be ok too. I use silicone grease which is found in the plumbing department (100% pure silicone grease). Otherwise I'd have to remove the foil and fix it.Ī note about wood screws: If the screws securing your control cover and jack plate are difficult to remove, you can coat them with bee's wax or ordinary paraffin. That ring is so narrow (and tight-fitting around the shaft) that it fits within the space next to the ledge. (If I use a washer to lower the pot shaft, it cocks the shaft to the side.).įortunately, I was already planning to use a wire-ring connector beneath each pot (to connect the pots together with a bare ground wire, instead of soldering to the pot case. If I would've noticed that before I foiled over it, I would have leveled that. Especially the one on the left (original volume hole). Notice the uneven wood surface around the holes (the circular ledge). I.e., the nearest edge of the guitar that would rest on your leg while you play. Mine has to be rotated so the long tip-connector is in the bottom-most part of the hole. Mine has to be oriented a particular way or there isn't space for that long tip connector to flex as the male jack is inserted. Also: Pay attention to how your jack (the long tip connector) is oriented in the hole.
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